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Bat Shit Crazy T 
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Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 
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Hanging Gardens T 
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Lopper, The T 
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Under the Big-Top T 
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Under the Big-Top 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: nbrown on Mar 28, 2017

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Approaching the Boulder Problem crux. TC photo

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Description 

Another high-quality rainy day route that adds a considerable amount of technical climbing to the area classic. Well worth climbing if you're looking for a (fairly) sustained pitch of 5.11.

P-1
Climb the initial easy corner of BPITS to the ledge and belay. 35'

P-2
About 30' left of the main corner, pull a bouldery start up to a ramp that takes small gear. Step up and clip a bolt out left, then traverse left to a good stance below a techy face. Climb the face past 2 bolts and into the shallow left-facing corner. Continue past one more bolt to merge into BPITS at the crux. Good stance here allows for a rest before continuing through the BPITS crux and to its anchors out left. Save a piece to protect your partner on the traverse! 110'

Location 

Starts on Boulder Problem in the Sky but climbs the face about 20-30' left.

Protection 

bolts and gear up to #2 or 3 camalot


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 17, 2017

A great route, and much more in line with the crux grade than the moderate corner. This is a big stellar pitch that leads right into the crux of BPITS. An alternative start can be had using the flake system instead of the corner. A nice option, if you've done the corner a bunch.

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