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Under the Big Top 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: john durr on Feb 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Under The Big Top

Description 

This is a very short, steep 3 bolt gymnastic face climb ending on Josh's inevitable loose grain. It starts at a right leaning rail and pops up to huge jugs. Move up past the third bolt (crux) then up and right.

Location 

North face of the big top, about 100 feet west of 3 Ring Circus.

Protection 

3 nice fat button head bolts, all spinners for protection. One great bolt for the anchor, 0.5-1" cams to back it up. Easy fifth class scramble right or rappel off the single bolt to get down.


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By Murf
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First bolt has been pounded partially flat (or mostly flat then fixed). as mentioned all bolts are spinners, and not very confidence inspiring. Large portions of the starting rail are very loose. With traffic and a bolt cleanup would be a fun diversion.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

"Under the Big Top" is the name I've heard for this route.
By Richard Shore
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The "loose" sections of the starting rail may have been broken off, as evidenced by some fresh looking rock. A long reach move gets you past the initial rail to the huecos. You can also jump start to the big huecos from the adjacent boulder, but this approach shortens an already short climb by about 8 feet.

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