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Uncommon Valor 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jul 6, 2015

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A long stab mid-way through the crux.

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Description 

This burly number is another would-be warm-up that turned out much harder than expected. The climbing is excellent while it lasts, but the line is fairly short. Furthermore, otherwise stellar rock quality is marred slightly by a brief band of flaky pegmatite. The sustained crux section begins with powerful liebacking on micro-feet, followed by more pumpy underclings and slaps to reach the top.

Begin with easy liebacking to reach a molasses mini-ledge ten-feet up. Clip up, then delicately mantel and stand up on the ledge with the aid of the diagonaling pegmatite crack feature. Gaston and lieback up the bottoming seam, eventually making a big move or two to reach a set of gently sloping edges. Pull up under the bulge, and then bear hug and slap your way to the top.

Location 

This is the furthest right bolted line at the very top of the broad, sloping ledge below the West Face.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Uncommon Valor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Uncommon Valor ends with a brief section of burly ...
Uncommon Valor ends with a brief section of burly ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the band of flaky pegmatite.  The crux be...
Crossing the band of flaky pegmatite. The crux be...

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