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Uncomfortably Dumb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,258
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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nearing the 5th or 6th bolt

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


Climb up the diheadral and then out onto a face. This is third bolted route from the left in Horseshoe canyon, and is one of the easier routes to track down. If you walk up the hillside to on of the 12's and look back, the top face sticks out quite well.

A good route with lots of interesting secitons for all abilities, and you may find a couple of the top bolts a little unnecessary. The top 20 or so feet is a cakwalk after exiting the diheadral.

I (5'9") thought this was a HARD 5.10a, because I can't reach the outside of the dihedral, unlike Jared (6'3"). The route became quite a balancing act for me, and seemed quite a different route to watch Jared climb.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos of Uncomfortably Dumb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Its my go to route at the Quarry. Super Fun dihedr...
BETA PHOTO: Its my go to route at the Quarry. Super Fun dihedr...
Rock Climbing Photo: michelle on uncomfortably dumb
BETA PHOTO: michelle on uncomfortably dumb

Comments on Uncomfortably Dumb Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2017
By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

cool corner - probably worth sorting out/moving the bolt placements down low???
By tresa black
Apr 23, 2013

I really liked this route. Total chick route!! No strength involved, just good technique...super fun thanks Aaron!
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jun 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

agreed with sorting bolt placing down, seems like the bolts are close when you dont need them are the spaced where it seems a little scary
By Colin Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pulled the cruz with a crazy high downturned right knee. Extreme value for .10a :|
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is not that scary so probably not worth the effort of changing bolts. My favorite route at the Quarry. Cool crystals and cracks on the top part.
By Vlad S
Feb 23, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If the 2nd bolt was a foot lower and clippable from the ledge it would actually protect the crux of the route. With the first bolt 5 feet off the ground you essentially have to solo the crux, since if you blow it or the big jug/flake on the right arete gets any looser, I guarantee you - you will deck.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 23, 2015

2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. A stick clip or a stiff draw is a good idea.
By Tony DiBiase
Oct 26, 2015

Y'all, there was a medical emergency at the Quarry yesterday with a hiker falling off a cliff. I abandoned some gear on Uncomfortably Dumb to go help provide first aid. If anybody sees a top rope anchor and two draws that we were using as directionals up there, I'd really appreciate it if you could take them off and send them to me. My email is I'd owe you a six pack!

Uncomfortably Dumb was an awesome route!
By Liz P
Feb 8, 2016

I agree with Vlad S. - I'm 5'2" and the second bolt was poorly protected. I had to stem out and then clip, but the feet aren't great. I fell on my first attempt and decked - twisted my ankle but no lasting damage. 5 min later I worked through it, so be careful if you're shorter and trying to clip the 2nd bolt. Once you're up it's a super fun and interesting route! Really rewarding - but a little sketchy through the crux. Just be careful because there's a chance of a fall from 10+ feet up.
By Tatiana C
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 30, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very fun route where you can/need to use stemming techniques. First bolt is easy to get to, but the second one is not reachable from the ledge under it if you are shorter than 5'10". I'm 5'6"/5'7" and even on my tip toes I was at least 2 inches from being able to clip the second bolt from the ledge (see picture). If you fall before the second clip, you'll almost certainly deck. Rest of the route is a great balance of scary and fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to reach second bolt on Uncomfortably Dumb
Trying to reach second bolt on Uncomfortably Dumb
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Mar 30, 2016

So how many people need to comment before someone moves the second bolt? If rough doesn't mind next time I'm there I'll do it. Or he can. I'm not planning a trip there soon so anyone else who's capable pack a drill and fix it. Unless rough has an issue.

Looks like it's the second most popular route in the entire area after m and m
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 30, 2016

I will fix a chain draw next time I am out there, easier than moving the bolt
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Mar 30, 2016

Awesome! You rock.
By Rough
Mar 31, 2016

I like Dave's idea of the chain draw. I would move the bolt next time out there, but that might be a bit of time before that happens.
By Kian Tanner
May 18, 2016

Fun route. I stayed in the dihedral until after the last bolt, it seemed a bit harder that way.
By Kim Harrison
2 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was really glad I used a stick clip to reach the second clip before starting, because the first clip seems quite low to fall on and, as everyone has mentioned, the crux is right under the second clip. It seemed clean and well maintained. This is one of my favorite routes EVER!!! It has so much variation packed into a single climb: dihedral climbing, arete climbing, crack climbing. It is a very technical route, and I found it didn't need as much strength as observation and ingenuity. Definitely a highlight of the area.

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