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Uncle Wiggly 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: VFA: Mike Colacino, Ron Kirk
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jul 6, 2009

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Uncle Wiggly.

Description 

The first pitch climbs an easy crack to a left-arching dihedral. Climb out the arch to a vertical, left-facing dihedral, and climb up to the stance (marked as 1 in the photo), 5.9.

The second pitch follows the crack straight up (crux) and then traverses left to another crack. The crack is fairly small (RPs/HBs) until you reach the traverse. These are very nice delicate moves. It is brass city.

I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). It was climbed in the late '80s/early '90s. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location 

This route starts to the right of the prominent arete on the left side of the central Castle face. Find the striking 5.10 dihedral on the left side of the face and count the cracks from left to right. Crack number 4 is Uncle Wiggly. It looks like this climber is on the 2nd pitch:
mountainproject.com/v/colorado...

Protection 

Bring all your brass for the second pitch. Otherwise a standard Platte rack ought to do it.


Comments on Uncle Wiggly Add Comment
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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Feb 15, 2013

This route is actually in between Castle Corner and Throne Room and begins close to Castle Corner.
By Tommy Ormond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jun 24, 2013

If you climb up the first bit of Uncle Wiggly, then instead of going out left to traverse under the overhang and into the left-facing corner, keep going up the bush filled crack. The vegetation ends - it gets nice, steep fingers and ends at a small overhang, a few moves on the face right brings you to another crack, easier and wider.

What is this route?

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