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Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 
Zig-Zag T 
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 

Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips
Page Views: 3,519
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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A classic corner.


This is a great, short climb on excellent stone. It is a good introduction to the art of the layback.


This is three feet right of the Moderation.


Doubles of fingers, a #4 for the start, and smaller towards the end.

Photos of Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect crack!
Perfect crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Keegan leading short but challenging corner, ...
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan leading short but challenging corner, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mikey.

Comments on Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) Add Comment
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By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a great route, BD #0.5 and 0.75 entire upper section, not to be missed at Zappa.
By John Peterson
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very different to TR than to lead. Other than a tricky move into the wide part, everything was very obvious - it's just a question of endurance. Considerably easier if you hang a bit or have a top rope.

We used a #5 in the wide spot, but then it's green and purple all the way.
By slim
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Wow, 10a? I assume you top roped it. FWIW, I find this one to be pretty similar in difficulty to 'Fork It'. With 'Fork It', you get the crux over early, and then it is easy. With this one, you get the crux slowly weighing down on you pretty much right to the end.

'Hanging a bit' would indeed make it 'seem' easier....
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Jun 23, 2013

Don't be a Euro! Due to the way this thing leans, it is actually much easier to jam straight in than layback. Maybe 10- as a jam crack and harder if you don't have technique, but isn't everything?
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Mar 26, 2015

Just a gear note: a #5 is much better for the pod. After that, it's all green Camalots/red Metolius. Purples are a bit tapped.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
May 18, 2015

Originally named Uncle Remus. FA - Greg Phillips & Dave Henritze
By Hunter S
From: Monument, Colorado
Mar 10, 2017

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