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Getting on to the climb is the hardest bit
Start up the 2 bolts until you reach the left facing dihedral. The crux might be the bolted start or 10 feet from the anchors.
This route is easily protected and has great stances for placing gear.
Walk down the trail for a few minutes until you see the right facing dihedral with varnish in the back of it (very obvious feature). Uncle Reamus is on the left side of the dihedral.
Place gear (# .75 to #3 cams) for about 50 feet and rap off the 2 bolt sling anchor.
The last bit of cool tricky climbing
I think this is Uncle Reamus.
By Jared R
Jan 30, 2010
This is a really fun route. I recommend doing it. It protects well and has some exciting, but easy moves towards the top. Well worth the time.
We replaced the mass of webbing last week (Jan 25, 2010) so it should be good for a while.
From: Moab, UT
Feb 19, 2015
Fun for anyone looking to crack climb in this area. Some great hand jams with easy footwork that makes you feel secure, good beginner trad lead.