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Uncle Ho 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duc Ly, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,387
Submitted By: wizard Lee on Jan 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Hayley on the overhanging face of Uncle Ho

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Starts a little chossy but gets better and continues up steep and varied terrain. Negotiate a couple bulges to a large ledge avoiding poor quality rock to the left. From the ledge, go up and then traverse left to gain a large flake at the base of an overhanging right facing wall. Climb pockets and jugs to a rest. Then up a tricky arete and back on a right face on more good holds onto a slab. Watch the rope and slab below as you pull the roof and up into an alcove. Some trad skills help a tricky and exposed finish gaining the anchors at the top of the cliff.


Right of All Washed Up and left of Babyface


14 bolts to double chain draw anchors

Photos of Uncle Ho Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hayley at the steep crux of Uncle Ho.
Hayley at the steep crux of Uncle Ho.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted on Uncle Ho. Photo by Nicholas Rondilone
Ted on Uncle Ho. Photo by Nicholas Rondilone
Rock Climbing Photo: Jan clipping the crux bolt at the roof on Uncle Ho...
Jan clipping the crux bolt at the roof on Uncle Ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jan on Uncle Ho
Jan on Uncle Ho
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny cleaning up
Jonny cleaning up

Comments on Uncle Ho Add Comment
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By Ian McG
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun route, with varied and sustained movement. With some traffic, this route will no doubt clean up nicely- potentially rivaling the ever popular trundle trophy and flexercise as quality area warmups. Steep face climbing, mantels, overhanging bulges, and even bomber hand jam! Some sections may be spicy for somebody leading at the grade. Enjoy, but watch for loose bits on this new route.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam!
By somillionaire Viradia
From: Los Angeles, California
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Once you know where to go this thing isnt that difficult, I think around 10b. I think other climbs like flexercise and wanderstuff are much more cruiser than this though and theyre rated higher. This is somewhat sustained and steep. For the roof, dont go left onto the face from the get go cause those moves are definitely not in the 10 range :0. Still some loose stuff too, especially higher up.
By janjan
From: redlands, ca
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It was made after the most recent edition of the guide book, cleaned up just recently this year Benjamin. Great route, cleaning up nicely but best to belay wells to the climber's right to avoid falling pieces. The crux is definitely pumpy but not more than 10a.
By Countzen Shin
From: Santa Monica, CA
Dec 5, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I feel like none of the moves are harder than V1, but its sustained nature gives it the 10b rating. 14 bolts of v1! Like it! It's would be awesome training route to lap.
By NathanS
From: Pomona Ca
Dec 19, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

One of the bolts are a little loose . I tried to tighten it the best I could and next time I go out ill bring the proper tool with me. Please be safe!
By wizard Lee
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 29, 2016

Route is equipped with Fixe 12mm Triplex bolts, which have a tendency to have spinning hangers because of the design, even when the bolt is properly tightened. To fix the hanger, need to loosen the bolt, hammer the bolt in more, then tighten the bolt to 25 ft-lbs (as tight as possible with a short wrench, moderately tight with a mid-size wrench). I'll try to get to them some time soon.

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