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Statebrook
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Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 
Berlys Arête  T 
Big Bro T 
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 
Dysphemism T 
Evil Twin T 
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 
Gary Goes Home Crying T 
Hollie's High Step T 
Inverted Englishman Direct  T 
Inverted Englishman, The T 
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 
Monsters Inc T 
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Only the Toad Knows  T 
Perverted Polishman, The T 
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 
Snake in the Crack T 
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 
Sulley's Belay T 
Sully's Success T 
Thing 1 T 
Thing 2 T 
Three Lions T 
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad  T 
Uncle Hal Direct T 
Uncle Hal's Arete T 
Unnamed Project  T 
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 
Welcome to Statebrook T 

Uncle Hal's Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The starting corner

Description 

Don't pass up gear on this one. Some moves that make you go hmmmm. Start under the right facing corner. Power up this with good gear to a stance. Tip toe up the arete until it is possible to step right and climb the face right of the arete to a ledge. Climb straight up to the anchors.

Location 

On the left side of the log step dirt cone at a right facing right leaning corner.

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Uncle Hal's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle of the pitch.  The gear is small here.
Middle of the pitch. The gear is small here.

Comments on Uncle Hal's Arete Add Comment
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By Gunkiemike
Jul 22, 2015

Great route. I thought it was G rated gear-wise (not the stated PG), but maybe I drifted a bit too far right in the last few bodylengths, as there was a beautiful 1" crack leading to a spot even with, but a few feet right of, the anchors. Or maybe the very thin crack halfway up the route where I got in a couple red X4s was the "PG spot". Whatever, loved the pitch.

One dis - it's the only route I've done there where the top anchor in not well suited for lowering. It's a pair of beefy links that are 90* out of the orientation you'd want them to be. No biggie, rig a sling, and last climber raps. I'll improve it next time I'm there.
By Rob Upton
Jul 17, 2016

To the right of Butter My Butt and past Uncle Hal Direct is a broken arête on the left side of the dirty gulley. Climb the blocky arête moving out right up the face through awkward undercling/layback moves under the slanting roof. Climb straight up the arête to the obvious ledge just below the anchors.
By Rob Upton
Jul 17, 2016

@Gunkiemike I think the anchors you were for Big Bro, further back in the gulley