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Uncle Hal's Arete T 
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Uncle Hal's Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The starting corner


Don't pass up gear on this one. Some moves that make you go hmmmm. Start under the right facing corner. Power up this with good gear to a stance. Tip toe up the arete until it is possible to step right and climb the face right of the arete to a ledge. Climb straight up to the anchors.


On the left side of the log step dirt cone at a right facing right leaning corner.


Standard rack

Photos of Uncle Hal's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle of the pitch.  The gear is small here.
Middle of the pitch. The gear is small here.

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By Gunkiemike
Jul 22, 2015

Great route. I thought it was G rated gear-wise (not the stated PG), but maybe I drifted a bit too far right in the last few bodylengths, as there was a beautiful 1" crack leading to a spot even with, but a few feet right of, the anchors. Or maybe the very thin crack halfway up the route where I got in a couple red X4s was the "PG spot". Whatever, loved the pitch.

One dis - it's the only route I've done there where the top anchor in not well suited for lowering. It's a pair of beefy links that are 90* out of the orientation you'd want them to be. No biggie, rig a sling, and last climber raps. I'll improve it next time I'm there.
By Rob Upton
Jul 17, 2016

To the right of Butter My Butt and past Uncle Hal Direct is a broken arête on the left side of the dirty gulley. Climb the blocky arête moving out right up the face through awkward undercling/layback moves under the slanting roof. Climb straight up the arête to the obvious ledge just below the anchors.
By Rob Upton
Jul 17, 2016

@Gunkiemike I think the anchors you were for Big Bro, further back in the gulley

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