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Chew Tooth
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Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 

Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton, 1990
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 4, 2003

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Dimitri Barton soloing "Uncle Fred's Vacation...

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Description 

Climb the bolted featured bulge on the right side of the Chew Tooth. This leads up a vertical section that quickly becomes slabby. The crux is definitely up the first 10 feet.

Instead of cheating in from the left side, the direct approach goes straight up to the jug on the corner. This goes at .11a.

Protection 

4 bolts to a two bolt top anchor. Access for atop rope is simply to walk to the top of the rock,where you will find these bolts on the left side (looking down). A crashpad would be nice for the boulder start, which goes at 5.11a.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Dimitri Barton starting to solo "Uncle Fred's...
Dimitri Barton starting to solo "Uncle Fred's...

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By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Aug 23, 2006

Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route solo in 1990. The bolts were added (with DB's permission) a short while later.
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Nice one, Dementri!
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jan 15, 2010

This route may only be 30 feet tall, but it's 30 feet of continuously excellent climbing. I did the 5.11a start, which I thought was great, but it may be frustrating for shorter people. A crash pad / stick clip is definitely optional as the landing is perfect.

I'm not entirely sure, but I think the 10a start involves making a move or two way out left from the first bolt (possibly in the crack?), so a pad or a stick clip may be more warranted for that case.

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