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Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
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Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 11, 2009

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This short powerful route is more sustained than it looks and has solid rock making it worth doing when your not sure what else to get on.

Start in a rounded dihedral and head up to the first bolt, make a hard bouldery reach out right to a key crimp and work up into a slopey hueco. A positive pocket or a higher jug work well for clipping the second bolt. Work up into the large hueco, clip the third bolt or fourth bolt and make a large reach for jugs on the ledge above.

Apparently at one time there were only 3 bolts, there are now 4, maybe the fourth is for accessing the new route above the ledge. I clipped all of them and topped out above the 4th bolt.

Can be used as access for the new route above.


Far left side of Dirt Wall, Just left of the start for Almost Blue. Starts in a rounded corner. There is another route starting to the left called "Uncle Fester gets Sent in Europe" that is 12c, and some linkup getting a 13a.


4 Bolts to Anchors

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By Brototype Winkler
From: The Bay Area
Feb 4, 2012

I actually really enjoyed this climb. Though it's quite short, the movement is good and fairly sustained until you clip the last bolt before heading to the chains. The "third" bolt out left is on a separate route and not worth clipping as it will put you a little out of sequence for the move into the under-cling pocket. Would be a great route if it were longer.

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