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Church Bowl
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Church Bowl Chimney T 
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Church Bowl Terrace T 
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No Rest For The Wicked T 
Oral Roberts S 
Parkay Squeeze T 
Pole Position S 
Revival T 
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Tammy Fae T 
Uncle Fanny T 
Walk On the Water S 

Uncle Fanny 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Price, Michael McLean, 1/70.
Page Views: 3,662
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006

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Matt Grieger comes to grip with Yosemite chimney c...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Follow the low-angle chimney to the left of "Church Bowl Lieback". Continue up 5.7 at the chimney's end.
This is a good route for learning basic chimney technique.


Pro to 3".

Photos of Uncle Fanny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Uncle Fanny from ground level.
Uncle Fanny from ground level.
Rock Climbing Photo: Will, relieved the squeeze torture is over.
Will, relieved the squeeze torture is over.

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By craig512
From: Nor-Cal
Oct 9, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a heck of a squeeze job even for being super skinny like me. Best bet was to keep my right side facing the chimney and inching up from there. If nobody is on the Lieback, go that route instead.
By Linnea Williams
Oct 27, 2008

I agree. This was the most brutal and unnecessary 5.7 ever.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Dec 30, 2009

Even Don Reid warns about Yosemite being a valley of demanding cracks. I think he saved it for the topo of this pitch. The fact is that it has smooth granite with perfect chimney/squeeze/offwidth moves. You can take a no hands rest after every move on the bottom of this climb. Just look at the picture and you will see the solid foot-to-knee jams for the outside leg. Also, look at the perfect elbo-to-palm jam for the outside arm. You can get this jam on the inside as well. Just make sure the elbo is above the palm. You can really move off this jam exclusively while resting on the knee-to-foot. Do this one left side in, and remember to only move a couple of inches at a time. After practicing your technique, the hardest part will be picking the leaves out of the hand jams on the top half of the pitch. Enjoy!!!
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After grunting through the first squeeze chimney and nearly getting stuck (I'm 5'10"; right shoulder in worked best), I stepped right onto the face and found the face/crack climbing to the right of the gully MUCH more enjoyable and well protected. If you plan to lead up through the gully without running it out, it looks like you'll need an ample arsenal of 1-2" gear, more than I had available.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Dec 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easier than the 5.7 OW on Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT, with better pro too! Awkward enough to get you working, but once you figure out a ratcheting sequence, it's not too bad and never insecure. I spent more time deciding which side to put in than on figuring out any later moves (ultimately I chose left-side in).
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
May 18, 2011

Interesting climb... I had a hard time doing standard chimney moves since I'm 6'2".... Lot's of heal-toe & chicken wing moves for me. Great climb to work on this technique. It's a lot easier if you're harness is not full of gear (like most tight climbs)
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

BITD when I climbed this route, I did something similar to Floyd Hayes and abandoned the chimbey for some pleasant crack and flake climbing to the right. It's much nicer that way! I was able to use entirely passive pro as well. The chimney is a real grunt.
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you are looking for sweet chimney action, do not abandon the chimney. A hand crack in the back and some heel-toeing will get you up to the final finger crack in no time. Very protectable as far as chimneys are concerned.
By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
Oct 14, 2014

One of the best 5.7 to kick all s&@t out of gym 5.12 climber's lower back :)

Bring some purple/green to yellow/blue cams, 70m rope, a double shoulder sling, a couple lockers and a couple of plastic climbers ready to crash Yosemite granite at 5.11 or 5.12 grade. Have fun!
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jan 3, 2017

^^^^ Hahahahahahaha

Mega-do-must-Classic for plastic climbers.

If you think this one is bad try the first pitch of DNB.

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