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Unclaimed S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,477
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Jan 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Another fine route among the many quality lines of the Hidden Peaks area. Unclaimed climbs the middle of the face (left of Lothlorien and the tall tree close to the face). A tall first bolt gives you an idea of the spacing.


Left of the tall tree growing near the middle of the face.


4 well spaced bolts with a healthy runount on easier terrain to bolted anchors. For those wanting a little more security a horizontal crack between the 3rd and 4th bolts will take a small to mid-sized cam.

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By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Section in second to third bolt is tough if you're short and can't stand up from good feet to reach good hands. Definitely feels much harder than 5.9...
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The horizontal will take a good #0.5 Camalot and/or a marginal #1 Camalot. The runout to the chains is attention getting, but did not feel like a terrible fall.
By Johnny Toohill
From: Carbondale, IL
Apr 2, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I believe this route is AKA "The Monument" with an unknown FA. Kind of runout but if you can get to the top section, you'll be able to climb it.
By The Proving Ground
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

There is no reason not to add 2 bolts to this thing. The Daneshyar guidebook doesn't even make note of the runouts and it's a matter of time before a fall turns into a rescue. It's probably the best 9 at the falls. Make it accessible to a 5.9 leader.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I totally disagree. There is no reason to add more bolts to this route. A well-placed C4 can protect the bottom runout and the upper runout, while spicy, is not in ground-fall territory (and it's also much easier than the climbing it takes to get there). Not everything needs to be accessible to people on their first day out of the gym.
By The Proving Ground
Apr 26, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

If the argument against more bolts is that cams can protect it, there should be very few bolts on The Monument. Also, not all 5.9 climbers are "on their first day out of the gym". I've heard and seen plenty of relief from climbers of all skill levels after they clip following those runouts.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 26, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Personally, I find the climbing in the upper-runout to be engaging and rewarding. Because it can be easily protected, the lower-runout is a non-issue in my mind. I don't think the runouts are exceedingly dangerous, and even if they were, that wouldn't necessarily be a justification to retro-bolt this route. The route has been done dozens of times this way, and existed for many years in its current state - this ought to be plenty of reason to leave this route in its current state.

More generally speaking - first day out of the gym or 20th year in the sport hardly matters. Not everything needs to be brought down to the level of some common denominator. It's okay that hard and/or scary routes exist, and that some people will choose not to do them as a result. I choose not to get on 5.14 X, because I know for a fact that I can't safely navigate a route of that difficulty. That doesn't mean it all 5.14 Xs should be chipped and/or grid-bolted to make them accessible to me. Climbers should choose to make themselves better, not their goals easier.

EDIT to add:
Also of the 11 ratings opinions on this site there are two "PG13" and one "R". It seems to me the consensus is that the route is fine.
By Charles Hightower
From: Newburgh, IN
Nov 24, 2016

Unless you talk it over with the person who bolted it, JUST SAY NO TO RETRO-BOLTING! Seriously, if it's too scary to you, climb a different route.
By Maayan L
Apr 27, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Called 'The Monument' in Yusuf's book. Runouts after the 3rd bolt to the 4th and to the anchors make this a bit sketchy.

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