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Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 
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Broken Tooth T 
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Chemotherapy T 
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Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
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Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 


YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 2,483
Submitted By: eDixon Dixon on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Jasmine the Canadian hardwoman belaying her husban...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.


Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.


A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).

Photos of Unbelievable Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style
Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber just below the Crux
Climber just below the Crux

Comments on Unbelievable Add Comment
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By Alex Shainman
Nov 15, 2007

A concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and a #3 to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.

Great Route!
By Scott Bennett
Nov 6, 2009

Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.

Have fun,
By BronsonH
Apr 3, 2012

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is a mega classic for sure! It had Steve Hong hangers so I'm assuming thats who got the FA?
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 26, 2012

A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first.