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Spire Six
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Unapproachable  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Herb & Jan Conn (1955) Mark Powell, Bev Powell and Bob Kamps (1964)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 1, 2014

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Description 

A good, short summit with intense climbing on really great rock. May have a steep move or two in a water trough that could potentially be harder than 5.7 and requires a good lead head.

Location 

Approach the Spires from the north. Once you reach the Picket Fence area find faint trail heading south east to Spire Five. Stay on the right side of the wall and find a bolted line (goes at around 5.11). Hug the wall past the bolt line through a notch and work your way down the rock-lined gully. Find three small spruce trees. Build an anchor in the cracks and/or slinging rocks. Lead climbers will start by working over the edge to slabby terrain and must traverse their way to the left for roughly thirty feet before reaching the vertical climbing. Bring leaver shoulder length slings, webbing and cordelette or down climb to a shoulder to do a Needles Style Repel.

Protection 

Could also be known as Unprotectable. Belay from a gully. Belayers should dig in or set up anchor as their lead climber will be stepping over an edge and will need to take a long, traversing jaunt across easy terrain that is very high off the ground. A Black Diamond Purple 0.5 Camalot might be your first piece in a crack located a long way from your belay point. After that put your faith in a rusty, quarter inch bolt that might be backed up by small nuts. Small gear including aliens, C4's up to a #1 red camalot may be possible. However gear placements are sparse, run out and sketchy. You best protection is to simply not fall at any point during the climb.


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