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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,612
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 4, 2009

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What a beautiful line

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Great splitter hands that pitches you out of the crack a lot. Goes through a small roof near the top with sketchy block below the roof.


Left of where the approach trail meets the crag about five minutes on the north face.


Thin hands to fists, heavy on 3.0"-3.5" and a #4 camalot. 2 drilled angles with climbing rope for the anchor (bring replacement webbing).

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By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 25, 2012

This striking pitch is not only great fun, but features a cooling ventilation system that begins about 30 or 40 feet up. The sketchy block/flake is definitely not sound, but can be thoughtfully avoided. The climb is a longer-than-you-think walk left from where the approach trail reaches the cliff.
Apr 27, 2012

Huge fun. You can get down with a 70m and minor shenanigans.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Oct 17, 2012

The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

What a great pitch! Do be carefull with the avoidable looseness below the roof. Also at the top where the rock turns from splitter big hands to a questionable flake. I did not put any pro in this last 10' before the anchor. There is also a bit of looseness right before the anchor.

The crowds were gathered around MC's when we got to the base. Asked a guy if he knew how far left it was to this route. He said "We don't go to the left". What a mistake, this guys ego is causing him to miss one steller pitch.
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 25, 2014

The loose flake is gone. I carefully avoided it on lead, but it was moving easily when lightly touched, so we cleared the base and yanked the offending block out of there. It would have killed anyone at the base. Route remains at the same grade, same gear, now a whole lot safer.
By slim
May 2, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

excellent physical climbing, way heavy on cups (#3 camalots). it is helpful to have about 1 or 2 each of .5 to #1, as well as a handful of #2's to help save on 3's. i would have liked to have a few 3.5 camalots or 4 friends as well, as the 3's get pretty tipped. a 3.5 would have been really handy at the roof (between a pair of not great blocks). bring some runners/draws as well.

there are still 3 block/flake sections that should be treated with respect. i would give this a pg13 compared to the usual creek plug and chug deal.

we used an 80m rope, which worked great for this route.
By NicholasKoch
3 days ago

Any idea how old the webbing is at the anchor? It looks new, but looks can be deceiving. The bolt and pitons look alright from visual/manual inspection.

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