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El Ovillo del osillo S 
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Un Pobre Infeliz S 

Un Pobre Infeliz 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: winter spring fall
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Mar 29, 2015

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Shameless selfie after a roped solo of Un probre i...

Description 

Wild features with great rock.

Fun moves up a steep wall. Some reachy-ness.

Break left just before the first big ledge, left of a bush which is left of the BIG bush. Bolt or two leads over to the anchor for an awkward finish.

Shame this route doesn't finish straight up as indicated in the 2008 Rockfax guidebook. Either the anchor is missing or the book just got it wrong.

Location 

Just right of El olvillo del osillo.

Route to the left of the huge bush that's a distinctive feature of the Diagonal sector.

Protection 

Bolted sport route.

Anchor is shared with the route to the left; El olvillo del osillo. Get an eyeball on this anchor prior to launch.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Un probre infeliz
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By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm not sure why this is given a PG13 rating. It is a perfectly safe sport route. Also, the guide book calls it 4+ (5.7 typically, 5.8 based on book's conversion chart). I feel that is a bit of a sandbag as it did not feel much easier than the 5.9 to the left.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Apr 18, 2017

I rated it PG13 as its reachy and has a bit of a sketchy traverse to reach the poorly positioned anchor. Comments here confirm some of that sentiment:

ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i...

Cheers.

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