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Elevation: 1,166 ft
GPS: 48.35234, -122.0908
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Shared By: wakaranai on Dec 21, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Umbrella Rocks(s) are two glacial erratic boulders that settled near what is now known as Lake Cavanaugh rd. Between the two boulders there are about 15 pitches with most of them rated in the 5.11-5.12 range. All but one of these pitches are bolted face climbs so 12 draws should do the trick for gear.

Umbrella Rock is a scrappy little crag that will always be under utilized. It has some sharp rock that is chossy in spots.

With that said there is also some super fun climbs, especially Slip Of The Tip, Bumbershoot, 7 Fathom arete, and Oubliette. All of the other routes are worth doing as well.

Getting There Suggest change

The terrain here changes on an annual basis so don't expect it to be an easy find the first time around. Constant clear cuts, old clear cuts that have since grown back, and lack of consistant traffic keep this a mild thrash to find.

As of April 2020 the trail has become a bit overgrown due to blowdown in 2018. BR02 is no longer marked but approaches the same and is in plenty good shape.

I5 north feom Seattle 62 miles to Mount Vernon and take the College Way exit. Drive east on College Way for 3.6 miles to a round a bout at the Big Lake Grocery. Continue east on hwy 9 south for 5.4 miles and turn left on Lake Cavanaugh Rd. Drive Lake Cavanaugh Rd for 7.2 miles and park at a concrete barrier on the opposite side of the road (left when driving east).

Walk from here passing the concrete barrier on its right side. Follow the remnants of that rd passing another concrete barrier, then straight and then veering up and right. Look for a pile of concrete and follow that fork for a couple minutes until the faint trail to Umbrella can be seen on the right.

To get to Calendar Butte, don't turn right as for faint trail to Umbrella, instead continue up the road for 30 minutes and follow newly installed flagging to the base of that cliff. (See Calendar Butte)

20 Total Climbs

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Location: Umbrella Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Umbrella Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Dinosaur Balls
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Taintasoreass
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Oubliette
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Terra-Dactyl
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Open Wide
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
7 Fathom Arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Little Napoleon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Bumbershoot
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dinosaur Balls
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Taintasoreass
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Oubliette
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Terra-Dactyl
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Open Wide
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
7 Fathom Arete
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Napoleon
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bumbershoot
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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