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Southeast Ridge Crack T 
Um, yeah T 

Um, yeah 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wolfe - Abbuhl
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter and Spring
Page Views: 381
Submitted By: Furthermore on Feb 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The short 5.8 roof pitch.


An overhanging roof provides "good" climbing to the summit.


From the base of the south side of the tower, start climbing up a short chossy 5.3 cliff band. After the short cliff band, continue exploring up class 3-4 terrain on the south side of the tower. ~150 feet directly below the summit block, straight forward access to the top is halted. Scramble to the southeast ridge (class 4) and once on the southeast ridge, do a short descent to a bench around to the east face. From the bench on the east face, scramble up ledges/chimneys to the start of an off-width crack. The off-width crack is ~200-300 feet east of the southeast ridge.

Climb up the off-width crack, 5.6, and belay below a large hand crack roof. Continue up the roof, 5.8, to the tippy top. Although these 2 short pitches can be combined, chossy boulders are waiting to kill the belayer at the top of the 5.6 crack. “Um, yeah... this boulder is about to kill you.”

For the descent, scramble 50 feet south from the summit to a large boulder. Rappel down the southeast ridge route to the east face ledges.

Pro in the hand crack is stellar whereas pro everywhere else is marginal. Be aware that the scrambling is very chossy. The rock quality in the hand crack is good but not so good above the crack. I've never had a hand jam blow before this route....


Single BD #2-4 and slings for anchors.

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By Furthermore
Feb 26, 2014

This is a two star route for good views and adventure. The actual 5.8 climbing isn't too bad. Everything else, not so much.

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