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Ultramagnetic MCs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K Howard H Yang C long
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Cunning Linguist on Jan 13, 2015

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A surprisingly moderate and well-protected face climb that simply eats as much gear as you can throw at it for the first half, then steepens and follows three bolts to a spacious ledge and bolted anchor just left of Godzilla's. Quality rock for a Calico Hills first ascent.

Location 

Start with an mantel on black rock fifteen feet left of Godzilla's start to a shallow corner that takes gear. Follow good pro and intuition up fun features to a steeper, bolt-protected upper wall to anchors. We rapped Godzilla with a 70M since it seemed very possible that we wouldn't make the ground with a single line.

Protection 

I used double cams from 00-.5 and found a set of offset brass to be useful in addition to a set of stoppers. Lots of slings are a good idea since pro is plentiful and zigzags a bit from crack to crack. I appreciated a red C3/green alien size piece near the top between the last two bolts.


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By Ben Townsend
Nov 17, 2016

Great climbing, bring lots of wires including micros. The top bolts don't have chains or rings, but the anchor of Godzilla is just a step to the right. 70m rope works for a rappel if you angle east (climber's right).

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