Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Ultralight Master Cam
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
May 13, 2016
Anyone with experience with the Metolius ultralight master cam out there who could give me a quick thumbs up or down on them? I've been using C4s and X4s exclusively for a couple of years, so the smaller range of the MUMCs is a turnoff, but otherwise they seem pretty sweet for the price and weight. And beyond the general "should I bother" is there a particular number range where they excel in a rack mixed with BD? It seems like some people like the 00-4 MC matched with 0.5-4 C4. Thanks. Owen Witesman
From Springville, UT
Joined Feb 25, 2014
121 points
May 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Tetons
I have the orange... I picked it up as a double, it kind of fits between my 0.5 and 0.4 BD cams.

I like it, I seem to find a placement for it on most climbs.
ChrisN
From Morro Bay, CA
Joined Oct 14, 2014
39 points
May 14, 2016
I like them. They are very well made and I like the changes. I think they do shine in the smaller sizes you mentioned. If you're expecting lots of horizontal placements there are more suitable options. Mrkb3
Joined Mar 4, 2015
117 points
May 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Vegas Burro
Love them. No problems with them so far. I have a set of BD cams to include x4 and would rather rack the Metolius. Although, I have to say, it's tough, if not impossible, for me to not rack my totems with my metolius. earl...
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Oct 12, 2011
156 points
May 16, 2016
I have sizes 5-7 and they are awesome. The old 7's were a little floppy, but they are great now with a thicker/stiffer cable and nice and light weight. I just noticed that backcountry.com has them on sale for $51. I might go buy the #8. Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Joined Aug 11, 2011
34 points
May 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Wunsch's Dihedral
I'll be the outlier and and say that I don't prefer them over x4s. It's a little finicky to get the thumb oriented right with the floppy webbing. I feel like I can tell a difference in the lack of range as well. Other than that they are well made just not my favorite. Don Ferris
From Eldorado Springs
Joined Nov 27, 2012
143 points
May 16, 2016
Not trying to hijack the thread but...

I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s?

I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.
Eric K
From Washington
Joined Aug 15, 2010
54 points
May 16, 2016
Big thumbs up from me John Gassel
From Boston, MA
Joined Jul 27, 2011
498 points
May 16, 2016
Eric K wrote:
Not trying to hijack the thread but... I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s? I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.


While I appreciate your desire to stay with e the Met's, having a different brand has its advantages: sometimes another style/brand of cam give a different - and JUST a little better - fit when things get testy. Personally I like the Aliens to fit between the Mets.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
May 16, 2016
I am pretty new to this, and trying to piece together a rack as well. I was told that the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams complement a set of C4's perfectly because of the different lobe sizing. For example, if you go to place a #0.4 C4 and it is tipped out and you reach for a #0.5 C4 and it is overcammed. You can then use a #3 UL mastercam because it is between the #0.4 and #0.5 C4. WhiskeyDan
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Oct 16, 2014
45 points
May 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: First Belay Moonlight
Have a full set they are bitchin! Carry those and a set of BD ultralights all racked with camp nanos, then mix and match C3's and some nuts depending on route. Makes a pretty damn light rack! walmongr
From Gilbert AZ
Joined Aug 8, 2015
86 points
May 17, 2016
Are they good in soft rock? Is there anybody to compare Ultralight Master Cams versus Ultralight Fat Cams in soft rock? Pavel Burov
Joined May 6, 2013
70 points
May 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Shuksan summit with the tiger
After pages of discussion. Mt Project decides that totems are the best small cams.

mountainproject.com/v/the-end-...

mountainproject.com/v/totem-ca...
Alexander K
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2014
68 points
May 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Yep. That they are. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
May 17, 2016
As others have said, metolius cams seem to fit nicely in between BD sizes. I usually carry one set of each between .3-1/yellow-green (double MC for smaller and C4 for bigger) and that seems to let me get more bomber placements that just carrying doubles of either MC or C4. I want a set of the new UL MCs real bad, but can't decided whether I'd rather a set of those or the new UL C4s. JoeCrawford
From Truckee, California
Joined Jan 26, 2014
13 points
May 17, 2016
I bought a few a while back when they were on sale. Not had a chance to try them out yet. That being said, they look to be very well-made and they are light, for sure! T340
From Idaho
Joined Oct 25, 2011
5 points
May 18, 2016
Most of the routes around here make sense to carry a double set of cams in hand/finger range. I find it very useful to have a set of Camalots and a set of Mastercams. I don't find that they fit in between each other, but are pretty close to each other in size, but they have enough difference that having one of each to choose from is helpful when something isn't fitting quite right. I follow the example of a friend of mine and rack the Master Cams on biners that are color coded to the corresponding Camalot, which makes it easier to quickly find what I need.

As for totem cams, they are awesome, but expensive and not needed for most placements. I have found them imperative on some tricky aid routes on desert towers, but that's the only place that I found them to be overall better than C4s or Master Cams.
Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Joined Aug 11, 2011
34 points
May 18, 2016
They are great, takes some getting used to using a small cam with no solid thumb loop tho, I think I bite the webbing to get my thumb in Jon Rhoderick
Joined Jul 21, 2009
823 points
May 18, 2016
JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock? Pavel Burov
Joined May 6, 2013
70 points
May 18, 2016
Pavel Burov wrote:
JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock?


I haven't taken any lead falls on them on soft rock, but I've placed them a lot on aid climbing on the softest rock known to climbingdom, The Fisher Towers, and they hold fine under big bounce tests.
Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Joined Aug 11, 2011
34 points
May 18, 2016
I personally like them less than the older Master Cams (I use them for small cams) because there is less to grab on to, but I still think they are great. Maybe I just need to get used to them, though. Jack Servedio
From Raleigh,NC
Joined Feb 28, 2016
13 points
May 19, 2016
Ryan, thanks! Pavel Burov
Joined May 6, 2013
70 points
May 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yosemite, Ranger Rock, 2001
I'm not going to go with the ultra light cams. The dyneema webbing can get damaged to easily. I climb frequently and the Camalot C4's last a long time. They can really stand abuse. One issue with the BD ultralights is the dyneema that's replaced the wire is not replaceable. They say that it's in a UV protected cover, but with repeated bending and falls over sharp edges, it's not good to trust dyneema. At least the Metolius ultra lights should allow the dyneema to be replaced. However, the attachment point doesn't inspire much confidence. David Engel
From Santa Rosa, CA
Joined Jan 29, 2015
204 points
May 22, 2016
Does anyone know if they changed the cam spring attachment point on the cam stops on sizes 00-2? The old version had it connect to the cam stops instead of in a hole in those sizes, but for 3-6 had it connected to its own attachment point in the cam lobe. Pete Spri
Joined Jun 1, 2009
217 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.