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Ultra-perm 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Martin
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: Rami Najjar on Dec 25, 2014

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In the Crux of the classic Ultra-Perm

Description 

Description from the guidebook: One of the best routes east of the Mississippi. Begin on a boulder 20 feet right of the previous line. Climb the initial face, then move left to an overhanging wall. Enjoy a few bolts of confidence-building moves on big holds to prepare for the smackdown that awaits. Dive into a tough boulder problem that doesn't seem to let up until you turn the lip. The size of your fingers may be the difference between you marking this "hard" or "soft" on your scorecard.

Location 

Just right of "fifty words for pump". Starts on a slab in a corner

Protection 

Perma bolted. Good to climb even in downpour.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Gawking at the impending beast
Gawking at the impending beast

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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2015

Some additional beta; don't read if you want to get the OS.

Climb 5.9/5.11a slab to a no hands rest, you can pre-clip the next bolt and return to the rest. Climb 2 bolts of 12- and begin the crux, ~V7 boulder problem, probably skipping the first bolt into the crux. Persevere to the above bolt get a quick shake and contemplate the 15' run ahead to the jugs and next bolt above. A kneebar in the middle (if you have the right size leg) of this helps get a quick shake before the V4 redpoint crux.

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