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Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T 
Chatsworth Chimney T 
Fiend, The T 
Howard's Fifty Footer T 
Mantle Fiend T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Pink Royd T 
Sensuous Corner T 
Tango S 
Toxic Waltz T 
Ultimatum T 

Ultimatum 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: John Long and Gib Lewis, April 1972
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This face route has a serious runout above the first bolt. To descend, rappel 90 feet from an anchor at the left end of the ledge. It is in the sun all day.

Protection 

3 bolts, one or two longs slings, and some gear for the belay


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Fun continuous, with a knob or two to sling for pro. There are a couple of great rest stances on this to contemplate the up coming moves. This was one of my early leads, and being weened at J-Tree, I thought the runout nature of this route was par for the course. It was only after revisiting this several years later was I a bit proud of this ascent during my adolescent days of climbing. Great climb.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is one of my favorite climbs on this wall. Makes you think. Very cool. I disagree with the R rating. No ground fall the pro is where it needs to be. In fact there is only one R rated route on this wall. and it is B.O.T.B.
By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 2, 2008

Agree with Bruce
By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Did the straight up variation at the second bolt, which got me stuck for awhile in a wide stem on sloped holds. Very cool finishing move to the gigantic knob. This climb would fit my definition of an R rating though, and I don't think the runout on BOTB is all that bad, considering how easy it is.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

I don't think BOTB is R. However, this route, Mickey Mantle and Howard's Fifty Footer - yes.
By John Long
Jul 20, 2011

This was one of the first new routes I ever did and all the way up Gib and I were wondering if I was doing things correctly. There's a giant knob on top I thought might break and I took forever cranking over on it. Exciting times.
By dnaiscool
Mar 24, 2015

A fall doing the .10d straight up variation past the second bolt has the potential to be a real ankle buster, so be real solid if you think of doing the route this way.
By Tradoholic
Dec 10, 2016

Runout after the 1st bolt is definitely R, no doubt. I took the variation left, then back right to stand on a huge knob to clip the 3rd bolt (3/8 but homemade hanger). Then get to the next obvious knob up and right, probably easier not to sling it, (no feet) and just mantle up using the arete to finish.

My partner did the direct by moving slightly right to a good black knob, didn't seem quite 10d.

BTW, this line starts at the apex of the ledge right of Micky Mantle and Howards 50 Footer.

This has two bolts at the top now but no chains, rap from MM.

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