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Ultimate Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, John Mattson, 1985
Page Views: 6,600
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeati...


splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall.


in a side slot on the West side of the canyon upstream from Mexican Pocket & down from rope swing-swimming hole.


3-4 each of tcus, double #.75-#1, single #2 & #3camalot.

Photos of Ultimate Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: a second photo of Lisa on UFC
a second photo of Lisa on UFC
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa on the UFC
Lisa on the UFC
Rock Climbing Photo: "pitch" 5 exposed downclimb
"pitch" 5 exposed downclimb
Rock Climbing Photo: "pitch" 4 cool tunnel-through
"pitch" 4 cool tunnel-through
Rock Climbing Photo: "pitch" 6 top out chimney
"pitch" 6 top out chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: "pitch" 3 UFC scramblin
"pitch" 3 UFC scramblin
Rock Climbing Photo: Wilson atop P2 of UFC
Wilson atop P2 of UFC
Rock Climbing Photo: this is the first THIRD.  seriously.  probably abo...
this is the first THIRD. seriously. probably abo...
Rock Climbing Photo: the 2nd crux, going right from .5-.75
the 2nd crux, going right from .5-.75
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux starts here
the crux starts here
Rock Climbing Photo: almost done with the biz....
almost done with the biz....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Knarz on the "Thank God Ledge" ;-)
The Knarz on the "Thank God Ledge" ;-)
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the UFC from it's base.
View of the UFC from it's base.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2017
By Seth Dyer
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This classic has great pro all the way.... I'd hesitate to give it a PG13 rating. Don't be shy, git out there and git on it!!!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 24, 2007

I agree that the pro is great the whole way. Triples of yellow TCUs through 0.75 Camelot then double #2 Camelot and one #3 Camelot along with singles of small TCUs should sew it up fine. This is one of the finest cracks of its grade anywhere.
By Larry Coats
Oct 27, 2007

FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985.
By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2008

I will never forgive Tim for stealing this route.
I found it 1982, just before moving to Tucson.

I'm kidding (sort of.)

This is a beautiful area and one amazing crack.
By tcskis
Feb 1, 2010

First ascent- Tim Coats/Jim Haisley/John Mattson
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2011

GPS: 35.035693,-111.715664
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 10, 2012

not PG-13, or PG. The gear is about as good as it gets.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 6, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

1- if you buy an 80 just for this line, it will be well spent. the middle mark is almost exactly at the anchors.

2- if a 40 meter pitch goes from splitter fingers to a rest ledge, to splitter ring locks to a little roof, past the roof on bomber locks & great feet, to 70 MORE feet of in-your-face crack with lots of hands and a couple pods (whew!), is it the greatest single sandstone pitch in NAZ?

3- triples from blue metolious to gold camalots, with an extra one or even two .75/black metolious pieces if you want to sew it up. runners on the first 2-4 pieces after the ringlocks above the roof.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Aug 5, 2013

Agreed. Not PG-13 or even PG.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2013

PG13 could have been for the hanging tree that was above the route.. which is there no more, last I heard.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 13, 2015

Just in case this route is a little too splitter and good for you there's a bit of adventure to be had if you climb a 40' 2nd pitch(5.9 kind of soft and dirty, a new #5 would be useful) and then a crazy scramble including a tunnel through to the top of the formation, which is an independent summit but I hesitate to call it a tower. Also if you do this you can do the route with a 60m rope and then do 3 quick easy raps down Twist of Fate.
By GabrielKoybz
From: Brooklyn
Apr 23, 2017


Looks great at first glance,but the rock around the bolt is eroding, the shaft is visible and starting to rust, and it moved a little when I pulled on it. I'm somewhat new to soft sandstone, being from the east coast, and it's PROBABLY okay, but I know bolts ain't supposed to move so I figured I'd make a comment. I don't have a bolt kit nor do I have the knowledge to place them, but maybe someone who does can go take a look.

Superb route; I'm recommending it to all my friends..

peace and climb safe!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2017

Yup. Those bolts were poorly placed, and they will be moved 5 meters down

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