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UKD (Unusual Killing Device) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry and Tim Coats
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,427
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Heather Hayes grapples with the crux of UKD, a neg...


Inbetween Fools Game and On The Edge lies this neglected but nice route. I think UKD stands for Ultimate Killing Device because it was led before the TCU. It now protects well with small aliens at the crux. Scramble in from either side to the stance at the start of the steep tips crack. Crux comes quickly with a very strange and off-balance mantle thing. After that just follow the jams.


Between On The Edge and Fools Game.


2 each to #3 Camalot, maybe 3 each black and blue Aliens to sew up the crux.

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By Paul Davidson
Apr 7, 2008

This is a way cool route.
Unlike most things at the Forks, it's more like a Tucson climb than a Forks jamfest.

I'd forgotten all about this route...
Didn't this protect on wires just fine ?

FWIW: Might be Unique Killing Device
By Tavis Ricksecker
May 11, 2008

Idunno but I was glad to have two black aliens on the crux of it today!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jul 13, 2016

Yes, this is a fine route and I wish several hundred more people would climb it to clean it out and scare the bats into a different crack. Would get 3 stars if a bit cleaner. It's kinda cool to climb and get the sense of what the other more popular routes must've been like back in the day. BD small X4s are also perfect for the crux, which is indeed a cool sequence of moves. All very protectable and doable for the grade. Glad to have finally gotten on it.

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