REI Community
Scottish Gullies
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"between Stubby & Oompa Loompa" T 
Ach Mon T,TR 
Aye Laddy! 
By Gully T,TR 
Dizzy Curtain TR 
Oompa Loompa T 
Popstar T,TR 
Stubby T 
Sunscreen TR 
UK Garage T 

UK Garage 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 14, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Climbers in the center on UK Garage.

Description 

This is nice gully that feels sort of Scottish just below the area of the Scottish Gullies downstream from the lower bridge in the Ouray Ice Park. Perhaps neglected (in my experience) but nonetheless a nice alternative for those seeking easier, beginner lines like By Gully if most of the close to the bridge routes are occupied.

Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 50ft (part way across a small meadow) to the 4th to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors or you can use the anchors of Ach Mon.

You may find significantly-less-than vertical ice here. Stroll up this climb practicing your good footwork. If this is too gentle, you can move just downstream & fire up the steeper prow to the R. A proper stroll for those who do not wish to tax the upper body.

Protection 

Screws.

Toprope Protection 

There are 2 bolts above & downstream above Stubby or upstream above Ach Mon. Or better yet, use a couple ice screws just above the route when things are busy here.


Photos of UK Garage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon Edwards from the UK.
Simon Edwards from the UK.

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By Andy P.
From: Wisconsin
Jan 19, 2014

Climbed 1/17/14. Fun, very slabby route. A directional can be placed to the climbers left, allowing a funky mixed climb which is still easy - but note that the lowering through the trees is tricky!

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