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Uiam Spire 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Adam Duchac on Aug 17, 2014

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Uiam Spire from the Temple

Description 

Fun, easy, multipitch that can be knocked out in under two hours. Fantastic views, cool features, and the murmurs of drunken elderly hikers all around you.

P1 (5.5-60 feet): Start at the base of a funnel with a visible tree at the top. Stem your way up to the tree and throw a sling around it. Take some slack and walk around the boulder to the right. Shimmy your way up the back of the boulder to a bolted anchor. Plenty of gear and natural pro options.

P2 (5.4-50 feet): Climb the slab flake sticking out of the ground and aim for the trees 15 feet up. At the trees, follow the double crack system up and to the left until you reach a gravel parking lot. Build an anchor in the crack and haul up #2. Plenty of gear options, but you'll only need to place a piece or two.

P3 (5.6-60 feet): Best pitch of the route. Climb the double fist sized crack up and to the right (look for the V split in the crack) until you reach a chockstone wedged between two walls. From the chockstone, stem your way up to the V split and look for a rat's nest of slings. Work your way up to the slings, pull yourself into the slings and continue up the shark fin flakes to the double bolted anchor. Plenty of gear and natural pro options.

P4 (5.5-40 feet): Look around the corner to the right and activate your cat claws. Traverse to the right, sinking those fingers deep into the continuous horizontal crack. Round the corner and look for the sunken rap anchor. Belay from there.

From here, you can rap to the ground in one go with a 60m rope, or continue to the top.

P5 (5.6-40 feet): Clip the first bolt and crimp your way across to bolt two. Follow the finger crack up and pull yourself up onto a ledge. Walk to the right of the ledge, feel for the jug out of sight and above you and mantle yourself over.

From here you can rap to the ground with a 60m in two raps.

Location 

Uiam is located in the souther portion of Dobongson in Seoul, South Korea. From Suyu subway station, exit 3, hop in a cab and say Uidong ("Ooo-wee-dong"). At the base of Uidong, follow the signs for Uiam rock. Go up past the temple, hit a set of stairs, and follow the ruts. About 10 minutes past the temple, you'll be at the base of Uiam Spire. Look for a faint trail to the right. Follow the trail for 50 feet until you see the mossy funnel on your left.

goo.gl/maps/Lk519

Protection 

-BD .3-4 (single set is fine)
-6-8 slings
-Bolted anchors on pitches 1,3,4,5 and fixed rap points.

Description 

P1 (5.6-60 feet): Start at the base of a funnel with a visible tree at the top. Stem your way up to the tree and throw a sling around it. Take some slack and walk around the boulder to the right. Shimmy your way up the back of the boulder to a bolted anchor. Plenty of gear and natural pro options.

P2 (5.4-50 feet): Climb the slab flake to the right and aim for the trees 15 feet up. At the trees, follow the double crack system up and to the left until you reach a gravel parking lot. Build an anchor in the crack and haul up #2. Plenty of gear options, but you'll only need to place a piece or two.

P3 (5.7-60 feet): Best pitch of the route. Climb the double fist sized crack up and to the right (look for the V split in the crack) until you reach a chockstone wedged between two walls. From the chockstone, stem your way up to the V split and look for a rat's nest of slings. Work your way up to the slings, pull yourself into the slings and continue up the shark fin flakes to the double bolted anchor. Plenty of gear and natural pro options.

P4 (5.5-40 feet): Look around the corner to the right and activate your cat claws. Traverse to the right, sinking those fingers deep into the continuous horizontal crack. Round the corner and look for the sunken rap anchor. Belay from there.

From here, you can rap to the ground in one go with a 60m rope, or continue to the top.

P5 (5.7-40 feet): Clip the first bolt and crimp your way across to bolt two. Follow the finger crack up and pull yourself up onto a ledge. Walk to the right of the ledge, feel for the jug out of sight and above you and mantle yourself over.

From here you can rap to the ground with a 60m in two raps.

Location 

Uiam is located in the souther portion of Dobongson in Seoul, South Korea. From Suyu subway station, exit 3, hop in a cab and say Uidong ("Ooo-wee-dong"). At the base of Uidong, follow the signs for Uiam rock. Go up past the temple, hit a set of stairs, and follow the ruts. About 10 minutes past the temple, you'll be at the base of Uiam Spire. Look for a faint trail to the right. Follow the trail for 50 feet until you see the mossy tunnel on your left.

goo.gl/maps/qShwU

Protection 

-BD .3-4 (single set is fine)
-6-8 slings (3 single, 3 double)
-Bolted anchors on pitches 1,(P2=gear anchor)3,4,5 and fixed rap points.


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