REI Community
Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cupcakes & Champagne S 
Fun in the Sun S 
King Snake Crack T 
Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 
Ugly Duckling S 
Written Exam T 

Ugly Duckling 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (November 2015)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 16, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Ally Cat working up the second pitch of Ugly Duckl...

Description 

Two pitches of interesting and varied climbing. The first pitch boasts a tricky, 5.9 slab crux as well as a bouldery, 5.9 roof move. The second pitch begins with a tricky move off of the belay ledge followed by pleasant arete climbing.

Location 

Located 20 feet right of the start of Fun in the Sun, on the inviting slab.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Ugly Duckling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Purple - Ugly Duckling (5.9)
BETA PHOTO: Purple - Ugly Duckling (5.9)

Comments on Ugly Duckling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 17, 2016

Nice! Glad it's official and we can climb it without fear of snaking the FA ;-)
By Patrick Callery
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P1 of Ugly Duckling is the best pitch of climbing on this wall, IMO. Varied movement, multiple cruxes (each well-protected), and much less of the crispy-hold face climbing found on the other nearby routes. Second pitch is also pretty good with a couple tricky moves and then cruiser right up a nice arete. Could climb this as a single pitch, but might get a little draggy up top.
By Kevin Littleton
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun. The slab start was awesome and very delicate. Good view on the saddle top out!

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