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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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me on ugly crack


I put in 30-45 min cleaning it today then climbed it. 2nd ascent? It felt pretty hard for the grade. I can't believe it got the 5.9 grade when it was totally covered in filth, nice work Mark. The moves involve lots of balance and a bit of crack climbing skill. The good news is it's now a bit more clean and it protects quite well.

Climb the discontinuous cracks up the face between 2 crappy sport routes. Fingerlocks and face moves get you to an anchor on the left just below the big ledge.


In the middle of the dirty lower wall at Prudential...


A small rack.

Photos of Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: matt wallace
matt wallace
Rock Climbing Photo: ugly-ish crack
ugly-ish crack
Rock Climbing Photo: in it to win it
in it to win it

Comments on Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) Add Comment
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By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 29, 2011

Rare plants grow at the base just to the right of this route, in a little alcove that dogs like to dig up to make a bed, so if you climb here and have a dog, keep it tied up and out of there please, and don't throw your packs on the spot. I don't remember the plant 's name, but a biologist came through with his students and pointed them out. They are seasonal, so you wont see anything most of the time. The spot might be worthy of a little stone wall defining it and a little sign.

All in all the route is pretty "eh", so I suggested that Ward put it in the guide as "unrecommended" to help protect the plants.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 12, 2012

I had it mostly clean, especially any important spots when I did it. I am sure it had grown back over the years since. and, yeah, it is a good chance Lee's was the second lead ascent.

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