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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Uberfall Descent 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: Santa Claus
Page Views: 7,503
Submitted By: JSH on Aug 18, 2009

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The Walk Off.


For most routes near the Uberfall - from Horseman, past Jackie, including Baby, Son of Easy O, City Lights and Maria, all the way to the routes around Sixish and Drunkard's Delight, walking off is a good (and sometimes, given crowds, the best) option.

From the top of Horseman and neighboring routes, wander down and climbers' right back towards the cliff top. Find the stream bed and follow it to the top of Ken's Crack and Boston.

From the top of Ken's Crack and routes further right, follow trails along the clifftop back towards the Uberfall. These trails will lead you to the open area on top of Ken's Crack and Boston.

Once you've gotten to the tops of Ken's Crack and Boston, you can see the carriage road about 40' below. Next: continue down the streambed to climbers' left and squeeze behind an obvious 5' boulder. Now, have a seat. Scootch left, to a good stance at a giant horizontal tree root - this feature is how you'll know you're in the right place. Scamper down and left on buckets and ledges, to the carriage road.


The Uberfall descent deposits you just to the left of Trashcan Overhang, scant seconds back to your packs.


You may want to use climbing shoes for the first trip down, but approach shoes are usually fine.

Photos of Uberfall Descent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The tree root.  Find this root and you're as good ...
The tree root. Find this root and you're as good ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Uber-Descent starts from the horizontal tree r...
The Uber-Descent starts from the horizontal tree r...

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 22, 2010

Certainly in the running for the gunks most classic decent! No fewer than 10 stars!
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 15, 2010

Probably the best for its grade in the Trapps. I'd backed off it on my first two trips, but on my last Gunks trip, I felt like I was ready. After a confidence-boosting warm-up on Horseman, I onsighted Uberfall free-solo. Unforgettable!
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 23, 2011
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X

Pucker factor 10 if you do it with your eyes closed, under moonlight, naked, with a bologna sandwich crammed somewhere. I'm surprised all the thrill seeking leaders aren't talking this one up.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 18, 2012

Hmmm. First of all, this is not "easy fifth" class climbing. It is fourth class at most.

Second of all, it is worth mentioning that this is not the way down that gave the Uberfall its name, and that if one does go the other way, which was as far as I know the "regular" way for most climbers BITD when everyone walked back from every climb, there is still a choice of whether or not to perform the actual "uberfall," most climbers choosing not to replicate the original path down.
Jan 19, 2012

Rich, what was the 'BITD' Uberfall route? I know it involved a drop to the earth from a hang, but I can't remember where it was.

I added this as a route not to set the record straight, but to describe the common descent in order to link to it from all the routes in the area. Hopefully to give a few people an idea to walk off every now & then.

And for what it's worth, I've seen a rope over it! Both in the context of protecting a nervous downclimbing adult, and for a kid's TR. Not sure what Santa does ;-)
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Apr 9, 2013

It's a classic.
By kenr
May 11, 2013

I'm not sure what the BITD route is, but there is an alternate route with more interesting climbing moves and less "obvious" exposure, at no greater difficulty than the one described above here. The top is tricky to find, so it's best to try it out first from the bottom, which is how I'll describe it here ...

Between Squiggles and Susie A, below some fractured rock with vertical blast-hole semi-tubes: Diagonal up right to a bent tree trunk, pass above or below that, diagonal up right some more to a ledge. Walk right on the ledge and step up onto obvious big rock. Turn into the face and climb up four to five feet onto another shelf, then scramble/walk straight a short ways to rejoin the other Uberfall route described above.

Actually there's yet another "descent" route with moves yet more interesting (at slightly greater techical difficulty, with less "obvious" exposure) above the modern toilet, between BB route and Eyesore/Harvard. Again, you'll need to first work out the route from the bottom, and learn what it looks like from the top, before you can use it as a descent route.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Oct 30, 2014

Spoiler Alert!!! Don't read this if you're looking for the flash....The key hold is a root that can be seen from the carriage road. The root offers a good place to shake off the pump and can also be slung to protect the crux. (***)
By Dylan Randall
From: Denville, NJ
Aug 5, 2015

Thanks for the gear beta, Ben. I was looking at a sure-fire grounder before the root
By Joel Ryan
From: New York, New York
Sep 14, 2016

R rated test piece for the grade!

Don't forget to bring long runners, rope drag was HORRIBLE!

4 star classic, don't miss it.

Rock Climbing Photo: Uberfall route beta
Uberfall route beta

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