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Middle Spire
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Tyro's Test Piece 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Tyro?
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

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Follow a low angle left facing corner through a ackward wide section. The last 30ft of the climb has an enjoyable lieback section.

Walk off to the left on 4th class ledges...


The first LF coner to the right of the Regular Route


SR, extra finger sized gear

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By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010

feels a little insecure half way up left facing corner. maybe not the best first lead for someone.
By TerriB
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 27, 2010

I agree with splitclimber. I also found half way up surprisingly insecure for a 5.5. Getting around the left facing bulge was challenging.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I found the corner secure enough. For me, getting around the bulge at the start gave me problems for a 5.5 climb. You can continue up into the chimney above (maybe a 5.8 move getting into the chimney then 5.0 after that) to summit Middle Spire.
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb, sustained and well protected, but much harder than Knapsack Crack 5.5 and harder than Deception 5.6 at Lover's Leap. Felt like 5.7 to me.

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