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Tyrion T 
Wealth of Nations T 

Tyrion 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JS, Allen Sanderson, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This mischievous little line is somewhat discontinuous, but the climbing is entertaining and the crux involves titillating moves over an overhang that is more reasonable than it looks. Start up a blunt arête protected by four bolts to a ledge (a microcam or two may be useful above the fourth bolt). Figure out how to safely clip the bolt above, then climb up zigging left then right past more bolts to the crux overhang. Thrutch through the overhang and work up and left past more bolts (some gear too) to a ledge with chain anchors. This is where Tyrion ends, but more climbing can be had by stepping left and joining Mad Calf (maybe 5.9 to the top of the crag) or stepping right and climbing the last pitch of Starstruck (5.7).

Location 

Follow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east for about 40 feet, to where the trail begins to slope down. Immediately above is a clean-looking buttress with a thin dihedral/crack system in the middle (the first pitch of Cost of Business) and Tryion's bolt-protected arête to the right. See the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start. Descent: Two raps, both from chain anchors, gets you down from the ledge marking the end of Tyrion. If you have a 70 meter rope, you can avoid the second rappel, but the rope will barely reach so beware.

Protection 

A set of cams from ¼ inch to 1 ½ inch, draws, and a few shoulder-length runners.


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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2014

Decent. I only placed one cam above the fourth bolt, and it was on easy terrain. I just felt obligated given the route description. If you are comfortable at the grade, don't bother bringing any gear; The bolts are spacey (not as in Kevin), but nowhere are you climbing hard way above your last protection. Rope drag is a bitch above the roof since you climb out the roof to the right and the route breaks hard left after the roof. Slinging the crux bolt long might mitigate this, but I don't recommend it. Do the route, look down at the crux, and you'll see why.

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