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Tyrants and Thieves 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Closed project
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Lurker on Jul 15, 2017

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Description 

This crack comes in two different parts: the first half is steep extremely thin, and hard, the rest is wide and moderate. The easier second half detracts a bit from the overall quality of the route, but the bottom part makes it worth it.

Boulder up about 10' to a ledge, stuff as many small cams (think purple TCU and black Alien) as you can in the splitter tips crack, and gun it. I personally can't fit my fingers into the crack anywhere in the first 15', but there's just enough face holds to make this go. Expect weird stemming and spaced-out edges.

I cleaned this route extensively and installed anchors right before I had wrist surgery. Please refrain from climbing it until I have a chance to complete my recovery and redpoint it.

Location 

Look for a clean, steep tips crack behind a tree on the middle/right side of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 4", chain anchors.


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