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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 82'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Geir Hundal just starting the crux section. The c...


Start on the easy slab below an attractive right-leaning crack that doglegs back left after 45 feet. Although the crux sequence is challenging, the remainder of the pitch is much easier. Climb the crack to a small rest ledge 10 feet above the point where the crack doglegs back left (the original route continued up and left in this easy weakness, but the following suggestion is highly recommended for the best finish.) Protect out right in the thin right-leaning crack, then step out and engage the thin crack to where it ends just below the anchors. A final steep move gains the ledge and the anchors found just below the original sling belay/rap station. Finish on either of the bolted second pitches above (recommended; Loki 5.11b, or Best of Both Worlds 5.10+) or traverse right and finish up on Sloth. (JS, RR; one fall/hang. 2004 first known redpoint) (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


1 bolt, pro to 3.5", anchors.


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix Serrat-Capdevilla gets it clean on the first...
Aleix Serrat-Capdevilla gets it clean on the first...

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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Interesting crux with a solution that can be found somewhere other than where you are looking. Probably easier for those over 6 feet tall. The gear on this route is good but tough to get in above the bolt.

GEAR-nothing bigger than a yellow camalot and you might double up the rack.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Aleix flashed this on Monday - probably the proudest ascent this climb has seen! Also on Monday, EFR cruised this one on his second try. On Tuesday, Jimbo sent on his second try as well. Were these the coveted second, third, and fourth free ascents? Good job everyone!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

(Warning! Beta Below!)

This is a really fun climb that protects well after the 5.6 start. The moves to the bolt protect with an absolutely bomber .5-.9" cam. Clip the bolt and figure out a sequence for the crux that works for you. Above the bolt another bomber .75-1" cam can be placed before working another tricky section to a jug. Great gear can be placed at the jug and the climbing eases 5.10 or below to the top.

This climb was originally rated 12-, this rating may be true for an onsight attempt.
By Aleix
May 13, 2009

Thanks Geir and Eric !
I couldn't have done it without you guys (...and your gear beta) :-)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

... that's Geir beta. :)
By Aleix
May 13, 2009

That's right, you can never go wrong with GEIR's GEAR beta !

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