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2nd Meat Wall
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At Your Cervix T 
Bacon in the Sun T 
Boss Hog T 
Butcher's Dog T 
Camping Under the Influence T 
Carnivore T 
Cube Steaks T 
End Of The Line T 
Evening Ecstacy T 
Extra Lean T 
Family Home Night T 
Gouge On It T 
Green Eggs & Ham T 
Hot Pork Sundae T 
Humble Pie T 
Idaho Flake T 
Low Cholesterol T 
Mad Cows T 
Meat Machine T 
Meat ya later T 
Meat Your Maker T 
Meating Jesus T 
Mouse Meat T 
Nerve Damage T 
Ninja Bedwetter T 
Pastafarian, The T 
Pleased To Meat You T 
Potato, The T 
Samarai Loving T 
Sesh One Cooking T 
Smell the Meat T 
Soylent Green T 
Swedish meat balls T 
Sweet Meats T 
Switch, The T 
T-Bones Tonight T 
Tofu Crack T 
Top Sirloin T 
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 
Two Timer T 
Two Timer II T,TR 
Unknown long corner T 
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 

Two Timer 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ??
Season: Gets shade from AM to late.
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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The start

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade. The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.


This climb is on the left side of the 2nd Meat Wall, just turned around a corner from the main face, left of Tofu Crack, which is left of Top Sirloin. It is the crack system in a HUGE, shaded, left-facing corner.


Rack of cams to 3", heavy on the 2-2.5".

Photos of Two Timer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan on Two Timer
Dylan on Two Timer
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the wide area.
Getting into the wide area.

Comments on Two Timer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I am not sure I would go heavy on the 2 2.5. You are going to need more 3" then 2" stuff. Also at lease one if 2 BD #5 comes in handy on the ow flake. The #4 tips out. This is what I would take if I do it again. 2 .75 BD, 3 #2 BD, 4 #3 BD, 1 #4 WC and 2 #5 BD. And I believe it take all of a 60m rope. 70 would be better.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Mar 19, 2010

i put the anchor on this route and posted it as "Smell the Meat .10" . just wondering why its on here as "two timer" ? ...and it is in the new book.
By slim
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

tony's description sounds correct, but dpurf's photos look like they are for smell the meat.
By 303scott
Apr 2, 2012

Agreed that the photos are wrong and the description is correct. Two Timer is an excellent LF corner with a little bit of loose rock down low and then enduro steep jamming through bulges. Dpurf's gear beta is not for Two Timer either.
By J. Hickok
Aug 23, 2012

Walk left from the "Mouse Meat" area of the wall to a large left facing very shady corner. This is Two Timer. Two Timer II is the obvious crack that goes splitter fingers high on the wall and shares anchors. The photo here is incorrect as of 8/23/2012, go left from the Mouse Meat/Tofu Crack area to find this route
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

beta that may be helpful: save BD .75 for the top out.
By David Crockett
From: Chattanooga, TN
Nov 27, 2016

Climbed this today. I thought it was an awesome and overlooked 3 star classic! Lot's of sinker hand jams on this one.

Heads up:
- Latest Bloom Guidebook (3rd edition) has the wrong gear. Suggested rack in Camelots: #0.75 x2, #1 x6, #2 x5, #3 x2
- The last 12 feet protects with a Green Camelot only. Save a 0.75 for the top out!
- The cover photo features a different climb. Go to the huge corner left of Evening Ecstasy (9+). The climb ascends an obvious large left facing corner.
- Route is 110 feet and probably requires a 70 meter rope.

More Beta:
Climb an awkward flake onto a pillar for about 20 feet. The splitter starts at the base of the pillar. 12 feet of tight hands (#1s), then opens up to a long section of perfect dreamy magical sustained hands (#2s, some #3s), then tapers to tight hands with many small ledges to stem, crimp, and rest on. The finish is a glorious 0.75 layback to the chains.

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