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Two Timer T 
Two Timer II T,TR 
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Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 

Two Timer II 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: ??
Season: Gets AM shade
Page Views: 1,277
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Dennis Lim.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


I'm giving it a star for two reasons:
1) Because if someone gave it a good brush down it might get one, and that would be easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor with Two Timer (10+) which is a good climb.
2) Because someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers might like it better.
But neither of those applied to me.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding "fun" once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ to me and not high quality.
"Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" have much nicer rock!


This is the awkward problem that leads to a strenuous finger crack to finish at the anchors of "Two Timer," just left of the corner. TR it after leading Two Timer.


Bloom refers to this as a TR and I can see why. The rock is fairly soft to feel good about small cams in it, the stances insecure due to bad, bad feet, and the climb i credibly pumpy and sustained. Perhaps one of these freak-of-nature strong climbers with the right sized fingers could lead it with a few of everything to 3" for the bottom and doubles .75-1.5" for the top half, but not me.

Photos of Two Timer II Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis Lim. Preparing for a long long finger crack...
Dennis Lim. Preparing for a long long finger crack...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis Lim going for it. Photo by L. Sparks
Dennis Lim going for it. Photo by L. Sparks

Comments on Two Timer II Add Comment
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By LahDaBudz
From: moab, ut
Jan 28, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

if you are going to put up two timer you might as well t.r. two timer II. it is better than the describer makes it seem. i dont have big fingers just average size and the splitter was a great finger size. the feet are a bit licheney. but the more people that climb it the cleaner it gets. it also has a really fun face climbing sequence just before the chains. and if you wanted to lead this the rock is only really soft at the bottom where the climb is .10 or .10+. dont be scared to at least try it....remember the t.r.
By Ed L
From: Slowida
Apr 29, 2010

I agree. This is a great line. One of my favorite sections of splitter yellow alien/.4 BD anywhere. Just TR'd it and can't wait to lead it. I think the R part is the double crack down low where it may be hard to fish in the 2" piece and unsafe to place in the flake forming the hidden finger crack on the left wall. This one, along with Ninja Bedwetter, go in my personal 6 star section. Rough blue metolius crux into a fun face finish. What's not to love?
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 13, 2010

Like most, I've only toproped this line, and it was years ago. I definitely don't remember it being as bad as the description makes it out to be. Fun, hard fingers, and it felt right on at 12-.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 13, 2011

Went straight for the onsight lead...Didnt get it first try, but found the gear to be good the whole way, no reason for an R rating. Really fun pitch..Placing gear in the splitter is the crux.. No real stance for the whole top half, just plug and chug
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011

agreed that this line should be lead and does not deserve an R rating at all. maybe it cleaned up a lot since the original posts. take a good amount of .5 camalot size and a few green alien size (end) in addition to everything else. good climbing on splitter off fingers that taper to thin fingers by the end.
By lenore sparks
From: Denver, Colorado
Apr 25, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Oh my god, did climbing this route get sand in your hoo hah Tony? Geez... this was the worst route description ever. So, to everyone else that doesn't appreciate the lousy route post, this is an excellent finger crack to the left of two timer. It takes cams from thin hands to very tight fingers. A couple of offwidth bulges and flared jams make for a varied, sustained pitch. Better yet, TR the thing and have fun. Tony-- take a good long shower or soak in the tubs and get all the sand outta the dark places of your grumpy body for the love of cod.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2017

Sounds like it has cleaned up. Glad to hear that. Bloom and I apparently both thought it was dirty/loose by local standards back when we did it.
I also used to get cranky about my arthritis and finger cracks. Now I just avoid them, (can't even straighten a few fingers on my left hand) so problem solved and I don't get so cranky about it.

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