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Two Shakes
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Two Shakes 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 22'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Dave Kesonie, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Dave Kesonie on Apr 4, 2009

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The awkward topout.


A quality training problem, this one goes completely horizontal for 20 feet before the crux topout. Your abs will be screaming in two shakes of a lamb's tail! Sit-start the problem on the west side of the cave/corridor. Right hand is pinching a large crystal, left hand on a sharp crimp/pinch on the lip. At the sit-start, your right hip will be against a boulder. Slap, pinch, heelhook and jam for the length of the roof to the awkward handjam topout.


This area is about 800 feet east (crosslope) of Sleeping Rock and 150 feet west of a large boulder with a two bolt toprope anchor that protects a 20 foot vertical seam/lieback.


A pad is optional but bring tape.

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By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
May 23, 2009
rating: V6 7A

Excellent problem, though perhaps not everyone's cup of tea. Rough but sloping lip traverse with steep crack finish. Very Vedauw-esque. Great find; thanks for posting. I enjoyed the whole thing and have managed no elegant way to muscle the topout. V5 or V6 even.

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