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Two Shakes
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Two Shakes 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 22'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Dave Kesonie, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Dave Kesonie on Apr 4, 2009

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The awkward topout.

Description 

A quality training problem, this one goes completely horizontal for 20 feet before the crux topout. Your abs will be screaming in two shakes of a lamb's tail! Sit-start the problem on the west side of the cave/corridor. Right hand is pinching a large crystal, left hand on a sharp crimp/pinch on the lip. At the sit-start, your right hip will be against a boulder. Slap, pinch, heelhook and jam for the length of the roof to the awkward handjam topout.

Location 

This area is about 800 feet east (crosslope) of Sleeping Rock and 150 feet west of a large boulder with a two bolt toprope anchor that protects a 20 foot vertical seam/lieback.

Protection 

A pad is optional but bring tape.


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By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
May 23, 2009
rating: V6 7A

Excellent problem, though perhaps not everyone's cup of tea. Rough but sloping lip traverse with steep crack finish. Very Vedauw-esque. Great find; thanks for posting. I enjoyed the whole thing and have managed no elegant way to muscle the topout. V5 or V6 even.

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