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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
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Bow Flex T 
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Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
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Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

Two Scoops 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Fowler, 1995
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Through the boulder problem and into the layback

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

New school style IC route with a bolt protecting crux entry moves. A difficult progression from powerful face/tips through second digit locks sets you up for a tight finger lieback/jam corner and a short pinch to the anchor.

Very cool I thought!

Protection 

Bolt, (1-2).4, (2).5, (2).75, (3) 1 (Friends fit great), (1).75, (1).5 (inches referenced for cam sizes)

Location 

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.


Comments on Two Scoops Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: USA
Oct 10, 2007

Where at the optimator is this route?
By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 23, 2007

This is on the same ledge system as the optimator. It has a plaque, but it is almost illegible.
By Scott Bennett
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.
By mountainsense
Apr 21, 2010

  • Historical Note: At the time of the first ascent, 00 TCUs did not exist to protect the initial moves, or the belayer.

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