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Bulletheads South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Alegria S 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 
Xenolith Dance S 

Two Rats and a Titmouse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robin Barley
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Tim Bonnell on Sep 17, 2015

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Description 

Despite the silly name, this is an excellent 3 pitch slab climb that gets progressively harder and steeper with each pitch.
p1 (10b/c): Start just left of Cream of White Mice and follow 10 bolts up the arete in a nice position to a bolted anchor. (30m)
p2 (10c/d): Follow bolts up the low angle slab, staying slightly right of the arete (32m)
p3 (11a): Slab climb past 4 bolts, then run it out over easy terrain (crossing the Cream traverse) to more bolts. The angle steepens and the climbing becomes an intricate mix of stemming and pulling on steep dyke holds (38m)

Location 

The route starts just left of Alegria and Cream of White Mice.

Protection 

12 or 13 draws is all you need. There is a runout on very easy terrain where the route intersects with Cream of White Mice but you'd need to pass out to fall in this section.


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