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1 - Pawn & Chessapeak
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Ten Star Whiners T 
Two For One T 

Two For One 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: AT, CK '05
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Jon Ruland on Oct 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Kale on his first trad lead. Killed it.

Description 

Start at a lone bolt in a shallow dihedral to the right of the nice-looking System 3 Crack. This bolt is high and getting to it is tenuous so be careful or you'll end up in the bushes below the route as it angles right. Make a couple delicate moves past the bolt (crux) and pull onto easier ground above.

From here the route becomes a system of bulges split by a quintessential Mount Lemmon weakness/crack system. The climbing is easy and fun and the gear is straightforward by Lemmon standards. Finish on the chain anchor which this route shares with System 3 Crack.

Location 

Rightmost route on the Chessapeak wall. Look for a lone bolt to the right of System 3 Crack.

Protection 

One bolt, light rack. A #3 will help a new leader feel safe up high but you can easily get away without it.


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