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Two Ears 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: na
Page Views: 2,554
Submitted By: Spinalflow on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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"Two Ears" starts next to the pine tree ...


Climb up and right past a small roof. End on slanting ledge.


Do a 2 rope rappel or keep going up Zanzibar Dihedral for the second pitch & walk off.


Plenty o' pro standard rack will do.
Bolted anchors @ the top.

Photos of Two Ears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down, fun route. Had a hard time finding t...
Looking down, fun route. Had a hard time finding t...
Rock Climbing Photo: You could call it a scenic route.
You could call it a scenic route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the grassy cracks on Two Ears.
Starting up the grassy cracks on Two Ears.
Rock Climbing Photo: Two Ears from the chain anchor.
Two Ears from the chain anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorting gear at the top of Two Ears.
Sorting gear at the top of Two Ears.

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By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anyone know what happens if you head directly up from Two Ears? That would be the face to the left and around the arete from Zanzibar Dihedral. The arete itself looks climbable as well.
By Brian B Ballard
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 10, 2009

Yeah, it supposedly goes up an unnamed 5.8. Ski Pole 5.7 goes somewhere up the left of there on the face.
By monolith Lith
Jul 13, 2009

Starts directly behind the single tree closest to the slab. Fairly inobvious to me because the rock looks kinda broken w grass growing out of it. I went up to the two pins then followed the seam right then then up through the cleft in the small roof. Went to the huge ledge and belayed there for Zanzibar. Didn't see the chains which are to the left of the ledge if you are facing the rock. Easy climbing but also run out at times.

Also if you are doing the walk off for Zanzibar check out the ramp sloping up from the start of two ears. There are a couple of bolted sport climbs to the left on an upward sloping ramp. I think the object of the walk off is to end up on this ramp. If you go too far you end up in a loose scree gully that deposits you below the ramp.
By Lynn S
Jul 16, 2010

The "bolted anchor" mentioned above has been replaced (it had ratty slings and wire cable). The new anchor/rap station is just to the left as you reach the big ledge below Zanzibar. You can easily stand on the ledge and reach over and clip into the rap station, the old one was 15 left and a bit inconvenient/exposed to get to.

If climbing Zanzibar, I would build a gear anchor in the corner, just my opinion. Now you can rap from the top of Zanzibar and get to the anchor while still on rappel. A second double rope rap gets you to the ground. The hardware is courtesy of ASCA.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I followed the same route described by Monolith -- starting at the base of the tree nearest the slab, climbing up through the broken rock with grass growing out of it, then following the seam right for about 10 feet then up through a cleft in the small roof and continuing up to the bolts just left of the Zanzibar Dihedral. The new anchors with chains are well placed to be able to reach around and grab while standing on the Zanzibar Dihedral ledge. I thought the climb was on the easier side of 5.7, with plenty of opportunities for protection given the relative ease of the climb. It's a great way to get to the start of Zanzibar.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Oct 7, 2013

Who knows where this route is? I guess I did it. It's a cluster of firs you're looking for at the start. Probably best to take the path of least resistance to the ledge, except I was too far left and shot past the anchor and ledge. Try not to do that.

Pro is decent, perhaps of not the size or quality you prefer, but it's there. This route eats gear, after all, it's long. I used everything between C3s and #2. I would not bother taking a #4 for either this or Zanzibar. Double up on middle size cams.
By Stephanie Nagy
Aug 14, 2016

Left an anchor to rap off of Two Ears, didn't have enough time to retrieve it via rappel. Anchor was built on what our party thought was the belay ledge, but it was probably not far from the chains and much larger ledge.

Gear we left behind for the anchor: #11 Black Diamond nut, #1 Black Diamond red Camalot, #8 Wild Country blue Hexcentric, one brown BD draw, one red Metolius draw, a 120cm grey BD runner doubled up, a CAMP biner, a BD blue Neutrino biner, and lastly a screw gate locker and orange 6mm cord.

If you find our gear, we would be so grateful if you could shoot me a message, and we will find a way to make it worth your while! Much appreciated!
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 7, 2017

The line or options for pro are not obvious from the ground. Start at the tree closet to the slab (as previously described), and follow grassy cracks up the slab trending right. Lots of pro is abound, even some textbook slots have been excavated for your protecting pleasure, but it can feel run out to a new leader. Be confident with slab and less than textbook placements. Chain anchors are obvious. Two rope rap is a must to reach the ground, or rap hard right to a large tree with slings about 50ft off the ground. Easy with a 70m, would be tight with less.
By Kyle Broxterman
From: Snowmass Village, CO
Sep 7, 2017

Start at the base of the rock where three large pine trees are growing. Head up about 10-15ft, following a series of obvious cracks that have little yellow flowers growing out of them. Head right, following the cracks, then up, trending right. Pull an easy roof, and continue up towards the slabs area (Zanzibar Dihedral). There are a set of chains for the anchor.

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