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Chair Bivy Buttress
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Two Dead Ducks T 

Two Dead Ducks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: old school, FL: Stewart Korte and Ryan Strong
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: Ryan Strong on Sep 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route follows the edges up the face just to the right of the Chair Bivy Crack. Starts out steep, then gently slabs out for the upper portion of the route.

Continuous 5.9 climbing up the entire feature. The route is more technical than it is pumpy. Really enjoyable little face that actually protects.

Location 

Face just to the right of the Chair Bivy Crack. Start the route at the right side corner, work left , work right, follow your pro to the top.

Protection 

Best bet is to HP this route. The gear is there, but it is only apparent when it is actually right at your face.

Protected adequately with a ball nut, a few micro cams, and a offset nut to protect the crux.


Photos of Two Dead Ducks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stew nearing the top of Two Dead Ducks.
Stew nearing the top of Two Dead Ducks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan pulling through 1 of 3 crux moves on Two Dead...
Ryan pulling through 1 of 3 crux moves on Two Dead...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on the slopey pinch match move.
Ryan on the slopey pinch match move.

Comments on Two Dead Ducks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 13, 2012

Cool! Totally under realized little piece of rock up at West Bluff. Maybe not anymore. Nice!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Mar 17, 2013

We were just talking the other day about how cool this route is. I am hoping it sees some action this upcoming season! 3 star !!!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Mar 17, 2013

Also the Chair Bivy Crack. SO GOOD!
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 7, 2016

There is now a big ole pine tree branch hanging directly in the way of the upper part of this great climb. One of the big pine trees toppled over above this buttress and now one of its big branches hangs onto this face. Just say'n.
This is one of the better climbs on the West Bluff if you ask me. The rock on this buttress is even more stellar quartzite then all the other stellar quartzite. This a super fun climb.... the holds are perfect and the movement is awesome!