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Orange Pipeline Crags
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Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam T 

Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+ R [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw 2003
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Dru on Jun 13, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The dihedral taken by 2 CloveHitches and a Microca...

Description 

This route was established as a roped solo aid climb. It takes a prominent, clean right-facing dihedral through a roof, with thin moves (hook and knifeblade) to start then widening cracks with good cam placements. Above the roof, the crack widens, becoming a mossy offwidth with some mandatory free-climbing (5.8, #4 Camalots). At a ledge about 5m below the mossy slabby cliff top, the route finishes at a bolted anchor. The bolts used on the FA were the wrong size for the drill bit and are only half-driven in their holes, resulting in a slightly-more-than-bodyweight rap anchor that requires replacement.

A little bit of cleaning and an anchor upgrade should see this route go free around 5.10+.

Location 

Walk the road east from the pipeline for 2 minutes and look uphill to see the prominent dihedral.

Scary, dangerous rap - be prepared to replace the rappel anchor bolts if doing the 2nd ascent of this line, or push it through to the dirty topout on the cliff.

Protection 

One knifeblade, Talon hook, nuts and cams to 4".


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