Two Cams and a Jam
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Balancing act on 'two cams & jam'
This is a nice crack route at the grade. The crack pinches off at the top, so you might not be getting those bomber pieces in the last ten feet. Wide crack start with face holds, then jam straight up, using pockets in the upper half. Ten feet from the top, the crack is no more and you have to face climb the rest of the way. Meticulous face climbing will get you there!
Crack system running up the wall just right of King Of Pain face. Just left-center of the lower CFE tier. A right-arching crack (Banana Crack) starts at the same place, but Two Cams goes straight up.
Assortment of cams from 1/2" up to #3 Camalot. The last good hole for pro is #1 Camalot size. Bring a #3.5 and #4 Camalot for belay pro in crack running left of the top.
Jammin on 'Two cams & jam'
By Tim Heid
Feb 2, 2013
Great route, a must-do if at CFE. Pro is great, tricky to get that last piece the pod as that's also your best hand hold!
By Scott Frankel
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way fun route and definitely worth doing. Great hand jamming, but tape up those hands first.
Jan 5, 2015
I found nuts WAY more useful than cams. Particularly the finger section.