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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East
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Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Hannah North, Stan Caldwell (date ?) |
| Page Views: | 1,015 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This route needs some cleaning. I found it to be dirty and crumbly; as such it is not so hot. From the chain belay on Fred Rasmussen, climb a few more meters of crack, pass a good horizontal to reach a bolt, pass a crux, clip another bolt, then head left to and around a corner onto big puzzle-pieces on a low angle face. Continue to a set of chain anchors.
Location
This climb starts directly above the finish of Fred Rasmussen. Start with that climb, clip the chains with a draw and keep on going...
Protection
two bolts protect the difficult climbing. A #3 camalot goes in a horizontal before the first bolt if so desired (maybe 5.8 territory?) and the top might take some gear as if you'd really need it (easy climbing). THere is a 2-bolt/chain anchor up top to rap from all the way to the ledge at the base of Fred Rasmussen with a 70M rope. A 60M should also work, but I didn't check.
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