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The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
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Twixt Cradle and Stone 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: Weston L on Sep 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a wonderful route with very moderate climbing for the grade. It features mostly great rock in great position. The pitches described here are the ones that most parties do (the first 8). The route does continue to the top of the velvet wall, but even after the crux the quality seems to deteriorate. We did not do the last two pitches, so only grades and Pitch length will be discussed here for those pitches.

P1 - 5.7, 90 ft. go up the obvious chimney feature 100' to thr right of the start of Texas Hold Em, continue to a bolted belay.

Unrope. Scamper 200' to the right along the ledge in the clearing in the brush to the base of a gully. Rope back up.

P2 - 5.7, 80 ft. Go up the gulley, going slight left. Belay at bolts and chains.

P3 - 5.9, 100 ft. From the belay, go up and right past a bolt, and then climb a fun corner to a wonderful ledge with a bolted belay.

P4 - 5.7, 50 ft. Follow cracks up and left aiming for the base of the major chimney system, traversing low into it.

P5 - 5.10a, 160 ft. A fantastic and well varied pitch. Climb out and right passing several bolts into a chimney. Wiggle upward (not very grunty) placing gear as needed and then reaching more bolts. Move upward into a shallow right-facing corner system and enjoy varied climbimg and jamming to a bolted hanging belay. Awesome pitch, not so awesome belay stance,

P6 - 5.10d, 140 ft. Climb up following a corner up moderate terrain, eventually continuing up the face through a pleasant finger crack with face holds (hooray Red Rock). Once done enjoying awesome finger locks, traverse hard left (bolt) to a bolted belay on a small ledge.

P7 - 5.9, 140ft. (did not climb this pitch. If you have, I will happily add your description)

P8 - 5.9, 140 ft. (Did not climb this pitch. If you have, I will happily add your description)

From here you can either rap or continue up moderate terrain to the West summit of Black Velvet Peak/Velvet Wall.

Rappel the route (P8 or earlier) with two ropes. I would not advise linking the p2-p3 rap due to potential for stuck ropes.


Far right side of velvet wall. Right of Texas Hold Em, the light colored chimney facing East is the start.


Two ropes, a dozen draws/slings, single rack below .3 camalot, doubles .3-3 camalot, single 4

Photos of Twixt Cradle and Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Twixt is the chimney in the middle of the photo.  ...
Twixt is the chimney in the middle of the photo. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: JU photo: Steph Abegg
JU photo: Steph Abegg
Rock Climbing Photo: JU Shimmying on up!! photo: Steph Abegg
JU Shimmying on up!! photo: Steph Abegg
Rock Climbing Photo: Another crux photo.  It is a fun thin crack; more ...
Another crux photo. It is a fun thin crack; more ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the crux.
Beginning of the crux.

Comments on Twixt Cradle and Stone Add Comment
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By Chad Laflamme
From: North Conway, NH
Nov 27, 2016

I climbed this to the top 11/26/16. Fun route but I don't recommend topping it out. After pitch 9 the rock quality drops dramatically, protection is sparse, and route finding is a bit tricky. The top pitches are easy but I had many large foot ledges bust loose while standing on them; several close calls for the climber and belayer. Memorable adventure.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2017

This route is easily rapped with a 70. We had to do a little down climb on an easy ramp on the second rappel, but you could avoid this with simple shenanigans.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 18, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route. We combined pitches 2/3 and 4/5 to limit hanging belay time (we had twin 60 meter ropes and were able to combine these pitches. The 7th pitch moves right of the belay into a thin crack in a left facing corner - tricky pro from tiny cams to flared 3 inch placement. After the corner drift up and slightly rightwards until below the belay, then climb back up left to the chains. The 8th pitch goes up and slightly right past some small roofs then drifts back up and leftwards on easier terrain.

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