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Twitterpated 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Hayden Kennedy, Planet Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/28/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,844
Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Apr 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The wide slot.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.

Protection 

(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.


Photos of Twitterpated Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.
Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

Comments on Twitterpated Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 8, 2011

gee, thanks for all the info!
By Raddam6
Jun 5, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought it was a good line. There was abosolutly no chalk on it when I got there today. It felt like 11. The guidebook has it at 11+ as does the plaque.When the sand clears out it will be even better.

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