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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Hayden Kennedy, Planet Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/28/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,826
Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Apr 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The wide slot.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line.


(1).3 (4).4 (3).5 (2).75 (1)#1,2,new 4 Camalots. Chain anchors.


On the far right side of the cliff, about 100' or so right of The Thing, but before the obvious Ansaid Tower. Obvious left-facing corner in dark varnish. There's a plaque.

Photos of Twitterpated Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
Hayden cleaning up the anchor. Planet Kauffman mil...
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.
Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

Comments on Twitterpated Add Comment
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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 8, 2011

gee, thanks for all the info!
By Raddam6
Jun 5, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought it was a good line. There was abosolutly no chalk on it when I got there today. It felt like 11. The guidebook has it at 11+ as does the plaque.When the sand clears out it will be even better.

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