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Twist One Up 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J.Coin
Season: All
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: jamison coin on Apr 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Brian Stampe gettin twisted

Description 

Face climbing on awesome pockets until you can reach the stem out left (which makes this 5.10) and start twisting and turning your way up into the dihedral.

Location 

Danks

Protection 

8 quickdraws and some zig-zags


Photos of Twist One Up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel McKillop stemming hard on Twist One Up
Joel McKillop stemming hard on Twist One Up
Rock Climbing Photo: Twist One Up, 5.10a
Twist One Up, 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: Stampe with a dynamic finish on Twist One
Stampe with a dynamic finish on Twist One

Comments on Twist One Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Angie Jacobsen
From: St. Paul, MN
Sep 9, 2015

Super fun route, but VERY height dependent. I couldn't stem out until I was nearly to the clip near the roof feature, and climbing only the face was pretty stout. Others climbers I was with could stem right from the start. Either way, highly recommended!
By Franck Vee
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a unique 10a. The first part would make for a fun route in its own right, classical pocket pulling on great rock.

Then, as soon as you're out of pocket, you need to realize you're now in position to stem on the other side of the canyon (or your belayer can let you know, after a solid minute of you getting desperately pumped and wondering how the hell can a 10a be that hard!).

The stemming part isn't so hard, just fun creative climbing, though if you're not used to stemming it may not feel as obvious.

This is a must-do IMO regardless of the grade you're looking to climb, just one of those fun remarkable climbs you need to get on.

I disagree somewhat with Angie, I'm 5'7" and found the stemming quite doable. Perhaps if you're 5' or not flexible it may feel different (or not that used to steming). Just go for it!

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