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Twirpie Girl 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Larry Boehmier, Fred Batchelor, Haley Mareau Aug 2004
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Apr 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: RW looks at the traverse from the Groov'n anchor t...

Description 

START- On the left edge of the slab, about 50 ft above the "toe", by a 5-inch diameter (2016) maple tree*.

[ * The easiest way to reach this spot may be as we did it: From the Groov'in anchor, climb left 20-25 ft (5.4 +/-?) to the Erosion Groove anchor and rap down to the START.]

Climb 5.2 slab 30-40 ft to a headwall with one, lonely bolt. [This bolt is about 20-25 ft left of the corner of "Little Dab Will Do Ya" and its bolts.]

"Climb the headwall left of the bolt...5.9" [per Handran's guidebook] or...

Alternate - climb about 8-10 ft right of the bolt on (brushed, 2016) footholds and a thin flake at the top. About 5.8+ to 5.9
Move up right a few feet to the Erosion Groove double bolt anchor.

Location 

Furthest left climb on the Main Slab.

Protection 

The original line has only the one bolt. Not that old (2004) but it's a "once zinc-plated" bolt now gone rusted.

The Alternate currently has no protection.

May be TR'd from the Erosion Groove anchor, but the swing would be bad, right into the "little Dab" corner.


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