||Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Murphy, Sept. 2008, (From Tree) Tony Sartin, Sept. 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||628|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Aug 5, 2009|
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Twinkletoes is a good line that is admittedly a bit of a squeeze in the area where Switchbacks
and Bam Bam go through a flaky area below a roof. It starts in the trees located just left of Switchbacks Direct.
From the center of those trees make difficult moves up to a "black spot" with a bolt just above. Climb slightly left and up through two more bolts to the Switchbacks
ledge (alt. piece here). Move up from the ledge and clip another bolt. Move up through the ledge/flakes whose right edge are Switchbacks
/Bam Bam. Pass the roof at the top of this area on the left, protecting with small gear. Climb a short headwall to reach the middle of the ledge which has The Quarry
anchor well to the right (optional poor #3 Camalot). Continue on slightly runout, but easy climbing to a roof. Go up and right, clipping a bolt. Then cross the roof to the left via technical smears.
It should be obvious that the first bolt can be clipped from the tree limb. The FA was done this way, as there is a fairly bad landing zone at the base. If this offends you, feel free to call it a pink point (although no stick clip was used).
To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.
Start from the trees located between Fred and Switchbacks Direct.
5 bolts, standard rack.
Aug 5, 2009
An variation has been done that starts on The Great Gazoo and then finishes on Twinkletoes, crossing in the area where they touch.
The grade is tentative, as there has been no second ascent that I'm aware of.